November 5-13, 2021
~ A sailboat is a mechanism for transferring the motion of the wind into the motion of water. The wind pushes the boat, the boat pushes the water. ~
BAHIA SAN MARTE 5-7 November 2022
Ah, Bahia San Marte. How you found a sweet spot in our hearts. This anchorage provides what we enjoy. Hiking and phenomenal snorkeling.
During this visit to this anchorage, our friends, Robert and Virginia on SV Harmony are also here. We hooked up for some evening fun of Quiddler (card game) and Mexican Train with these two very wise and sage sailors. The games are such that you can hold conversations. We shared some stories as the night moved on; learning and sharing similarities and differences. Cool questions sprung from our conversations.
One of us asked a question that led to a book, Voices From The Farm-Adventures in Community Living, by Rupert Fike, which Robert and Virginia have onboard. Twenty-five years ago, at the height of the counter-culture movement, several hundred hippies drove their school buses into southern Tennessee and founded America’s largest, modern-day
intentional community, The Farm. In its heyday, the community was home to over 1,200 optimistic young people. Carrie thinks she may have missed a cool opportunity living on The Farm.
The snorkeling in San Marte is wonderful. You easily lose yourself with the big fish, the colorful fish, and noticing a new fish to identify. This time it was the Coral Hawkfish. A phenomenal combination of patterns and colors that blend into the coral and rocks. Carrie caught the site only because she saw a set of eyes moving.
ISLA SAN FRANCISCO 8-10 November
We left Bahia San Marte, heading south and the wind is blowing north. So we motor the 41 nm to San Evaristo for the night. The following morning, we weigh anchor and motor-sail to the ever-popular Isla San Francisco. This anchorage is relatively close to La Paz. A common stop for charters and yachts alike. During the day, the ‘big’ city comes to the anchorages with loud music, jet skis, and a big party on the water.
Despite the local floating disco club, we went on one of our favorite hikes here. We located the geocache we stumbled upon last season, and signed it again. Recently, we added swimming to our daily movement; working up to the shore and back. It is a nice full-body exertion. We had a lovely full day here and we need to move on to La Paz.
ISLA PARTIDA 10-11 November
In Isla San Francisco, we weighed anchor with the main up and set off south to Ensenada de Cardonal on Isla Partita. A bit of fun while we motored sailed south, we hooked a 3-foot plus Dorado. We were talking about the delicious dinner we’ll have tonight while we gaffed it. I guess the dorado had other plans. It miraculously wiggled off and swam away. Darn! But not long after we threw the hook back in the water, we hook another dorado and made sure we didn’t lose this one. It measured 2.5 feet and made for a few tasty meals. The stay here was a quick over-nighter. We did not even get off the boat to enjoy the water. We were in the cove early evening and out early the following morning. We have things to do and a family member to pick up.
LA PAZ – 11 November – 5 December (3.5 weeks!!!)
We have had a tradition to stop at Playa Pinchilinque on our way to La Paz. This trip, we passed on it so Chris can continue working on an immediate urgent project on anchor in the mogote. After an additional full day, the never-ending head project actually has an end. [enter large applause] The talented skipper Chris rectified the ongoing mystery problem. And because he did, our head is functioning, again. Just in time because Pat arrives tomorrow. Phew! Now on completing some basic provisioning, dropping off laundry, and setting up the aft cabin for Pat’s stay, and wait for his arrival.
Below: One of many palapas available on the beach. El Molinito, a windmill, is a lovely respite from the heat of the day to watch the sunrise or sunset, or just chill. The chrome ball is the pearl in the oyster shell.
The city of La Paz is very walkable. We find the tourist shops and restaurants dissipates two to three blocks in from the main frontage street. The old town charm and esthetics are everywhere. And you know what else is charming ? Park benches. La Paz places benches strategically throughout the city. And they just show up when you need them. You don’t have to look far.
CALETA LOBOS and PLAYA PICHILINQUE – 16-17 Nov and 18-19 Nov
Three evenings away from the La Paz Mogote. And it was fun. And inviting with the aquamarine water in a quiet cove. What else do you need? Oh, perhaps some local traditions out the back of your boat. Like a family living in the north lobe of Caleta Lobos. The mornings we were there, the father and his young son of an approximate age 8-10, drive their panga out to collect their catch in their overnight fishnets.
We tried our best to keep some of our traditional meals onboard Dharma Girl while Pat was here. We think he enjoyed a breakfast of chilaquiles, served on a toasted tostada, shredded meat, poblanos n onions, covered with an egg or two. And sometimes served with a Verde or Roja sauce. We also enjoyed eggs and beans too. One of Carrie’s favorites.
While Pat and Carrie went snorkeling, Chris cleaned the bottom of Dharma Girl. Later Pat and Chris went trolling in the dinghy with their respective lines in the water.
The bobos were a little bit of a nuisance. But the frigate birds are cool to observe while they try to fish from the water surface. Or pray on another bird that has a fish in its beak. Our first learning of these birds was our first year in a bay across from Banderas Bay. We are sitting at a beachside table after a long hike and the bird sat on a tall post, a vibrant red color bellow below its beak against the pitch-black feathers is stunning. These birds are somewhat scavengers but not in the leftover kind of way. And check this cool fact out, Frigate birds fly for months over the ocean and can engage in both regular periods of sleep and use half their brain at a time to sleep during soaring or gliding flight. Can you imagine what you can accomplish if you had this trait? Anyhoo, Frigates are everywhere along the coast and a beauty to watch soar against the blue skies.
Oh no, states the motor of Dharma Girl, you are not leaving just yet. A boat part, named Transmission Cooler, allowes salt water into our transmission fluid. No Bueno. The coolant was strawberry milk-looking. No Muy Bueno. We walked the ‘broken part’ to the local mechanic just before a holiday weekend. Hmmm. After three days of nothing done, Chris orders the replacement part but again it’s the holiday weekend and the order didn’t process till Monday. We lost four days. Nothing crucial but the sense feels long when your mind is set to leave the day after the routine fluid checks.
Well, we are not sitting around waiting for the part. We took advantage of this spare time and began chipping away at our To-Do List to apply a new coat of varnish on the teak on Dharma Girl. Having a week plus of time to work, we sanded and apply 4 coats of varnish. Resulting in a finish we are pleased with.
And a small note about THE HEAD – 80% of the sanitation hose is now new, with new hose clamps all around, and Chris has removed all the crystalized build-up in all the valves too. The system is completely whistle-free of debris (to put it lightly).
Well, you did it again. You made it to the end of another post. We thank you for your time. We hope you enjoyed the read. Or maybe learn a little something.