Just Say No to the La Paz Vortex

April 17 – May 13, 2021

Marina de La Paz – April 17-26

IMHO, Marina de La Paz is the most homespun of the three or four main marinas here. It’s nice and quaint. The showers are spotless, there’s a nice little cafe with pretty decent food, and you can take a short walk to several chandleries for boat stuff.

Our big thing to do when we are in La Paz is to go get a burger and margarita at El Che, the Argentinian BBQ place one block over. The Dad runs the grill and his two sons wait on the tables. The burgers are humungous. Pablo makes a great margarita and likes to help you with your Spanish in exchange for some English tips. We had a great farewell dinner with Paul & Sharon, as they are headed back to Alaska for their summer, having exchanged their lovely sailboat for a proper trawler.

We also found our new Go-To breakfast spot walking around on Sunday morning. The one next door to the fishing tackle store is now #2.

If these descriptions sound a little vague, that’s because most cruisers struggle to recall what day of the week it is, much less the name of a specific place. 80% of cruiser conversations go something like this:

“Where we going for dinner?”

“Wanna try the burger joint everybody is talking about?”

“Sounds good, where is it?”

“A block or or so out the gate of Marina La Paz, to your right.”

“Is that the place where they grill ‘em in the hood of the truck?”

“No, the other place across the street.”

“I don’t think there’s a burger joint there, it’s a coffee shop.”

“There’s a coffee shop too, but it’s also a steak place at dinner time. They share the same door.”

“Ah. For a second, I thought you might have been talking about the ribs place.”

“Naw, that’s up the hill behind the old Applebee’s that’s now a sushi joint, near the plaza.”

We did get out for some culture.  Another cruiser friend, Blaine on SV Skykomish, invited us to listen to an awesome all-women band, Las Conde.  we learned after meeting them that they are sisters.  you can listen to some of their music here and here.

Other simple activities we did while waiting for the move to Marina Palmira, we supported the local rotary club with purchases of very rich peanut butter brownies. And we found a new hat for Chris. And play many games of dominos, Train, aka MexicanTrain.

We took walks around town too.

When we were living at the Tomahawk Bay Marina in Portland, we never saw living creatures under the dock. In Canada, Washington, down Western Coast, and in Mexico, we sat and observed the sea life that created a home under the docks. It is like having a saltwater fish tank for our enjoyment. This sea star was an active one. It would come out during the early morning and then after mid-morning, it would retract into a small ball for the remainder of the day. It was something we looked forward to seeing each morning while sipping our coffee.

Marina Palmira – April 26-May 15

Well, were are here in Marina Palmira, having moved here a week ago to stay close to the mechanics of Cross Marine’s home base. Our transmission repair remains about as uneventful as these types of things go. We’ll get ole Dharma Girl back to shipshape and continue our way north when the mechanical issues are thoroughly ironed out.

It’s sunny, warm, and we find things to do to pass the time every day. Varnishing rub rail, cockpit grates, daily hiking the northbound Malacon, and the hill behind the marina, going into town for open mike night which reminded Chris of the music nights our friends have in their basement.  The stretch of Malecon north past Palmira to Costa Baja is really nicely developed with a big walking sidewalk and places to stop and enjoy the view.

Installing the metal cap to the teak rub rail.

Remember that new favorite Go-To breakfast spot, Maria California, well, we returned there again, with dear friends David and Candace, Lady Midnight. walking around on Sunday morning. The one next door to the fishing tackle store, Dolce Romero, is now #2.

The bright and eclectic aesthetics of Maria’s California is lovely and pleasing to the eye. And the food is fabulous.

David loaned us his bike and both Carrie and I took it out for a spin. It was really nice to putter along the Malecon without having to take a taxi, Uber, or a longish walk in the afternoon heat.

And we found time to get out and hike the newly remodeled northbound Malecon path and the hill behind the marina. It feels fabulous to be stretching our legs and exerting ourselves in new territory.

A fun photo taken along the north Malecon path. If you can see it, put your comment below. And photos from the hillview trails behind the marina.

Pichilingue – May 13-18

The boat is washed, the teak is shiny and the chrome is sparkling.  Dharma Girl is looking pretty gold for an old girl.  We are ready to leave the marina.  This trip to Playa Pichilinque will be the test run on the transmission leak.  Also, we need to hang out here as we wait for important mail to arrive. When it comes to mail, mañana most certainly does not mean today, it may mean tomorrow, but it really means it gets here when it gets here.

Pinchilinque is kind of our utility anchorage in and out of La Paz. It’s only an hour away, and while it is a tourist spot during the daytime, it does quiet down at night. We only had one long afternoon of jet ski traffic on a Sunday, which is really not bad considering.

We also took a short hike over the hill to the little cove that sits between Pinchilinque and Caleta Lobos. We ended up taking a dip at the beach and hiking back. While drying off, we also saw the couple of previously mentioned Soul Rebel, that makes artisan bread and sells it from their VW Bus, so that was kinduva celebrity sighting.

A Man with his pole at sunset

David and Candace, SV Lady Midnight, drove from the marina to spend the day with us.  We swam, swung from the halyard into the water, and went to shore for some pretty good dishes of ceviche and guacamole. Then they left us a gift of a pie; half was Apple Caramel and the second half was fig pear.

Anyway, after our prescribed mail delivery window transpired, we abandoned hope of delivery and made our way to Isla San Francisco.

Thank you for spending a little bit of your day with us. We hope you get something out of these posts. We enjoy sharing with you.

Take care of you and yours,

Chris and Carrie

lying in Puerto Escondido as this time of this post.

Playa Pichilingue Sunset

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