San Juanico 31Oct-3Nov
We have short 8 nautical miles (nm) trip from Punta Pulpito to San Juanico. The morning was easy going and after we weighed anchor we decided to fly the spinnaker, aka the kite. The spinnaker sail is designed to use in downwind sailing in light air; usually in 10-15 kts. If you have seen sailboats sailing, you may see at one time a very large and colorful sail flown in front of the bow as it fills with wind. In our case, the winds were about 8-10 kts; just enough to fly our kit. And we did for a bit. So fun to be moving lightly with a colorful sail and the sound of the water rippling along the hull.
San Juanico 31Oct-3Nov
San Juanico bay is about 1.5 to 1.75 nm wide, with two distinct anchorages, South and North, providing good protection from winds. 2.5 hours later we pull in this amazing geological dream. The rock formations coming out of the water are stunning and the rock colors at sunset put on a show. The moon rises, it’s officially a Blue Moon and naturally does not disappoint.
The next day we go for, yep you guessed it, a hike. So we’ve been told by many last season there is a farm to purchase cheese, veggies, and eggs. We were also told the trail starts at the beach. Next time someone gives us directions, we are going to ask if there is more than one beach. ha ha. We paddled our SUP and kayak to the nearest beach, which happens to be the West beach and started our trek. We really didn’t have a plan, per se, but thought it would be cool if we came across the farm. After 30-45 minutes walking on a well groomed dirt road, a truck comes down the road. We flagged them to ask about ‘Anna’s Farm’. With our broken Spanish and the driver’s broken English we concluded from his arm gestures we just walk up, over, and around and we’ll be there soon. muchas gracias, bien dia seniors.
The Farm and Tour
After a hot 2 miles hilly hike and not sure what we would find we stumble upon this place and what a blessing of a find. Federico, the owner or staff, generously invited us for a tour of the farm. With Chris’ broken Spanish, and Federico’s broken English, we learned life on this working farm is profitable. Before we left, we purchased a dozen eggs from right under the hens.
After that lovely tour, which I daydreamed about living there the entire tour, we hiked back to the beach. The winds were up. And that is when we recognized the typical 5 o’clock winds we were getting up north begin at 2pm here. Remember, we have our kayak and paddleboard to get back to the boat. And you guessed it, it’s after 2pm and we have 1/3 of a mile to tour the boat in 15 kt winds. With much determination, very little cussing, we get back. And we are beaten. After the hike and hard paddles, I declared happy hour to begin early.
The next morning we have less-than-24 hours-old fresh eggs for breakfast,. If you haven’t had fresh eggs, please treat yourself: you may never go back to store bought. It is just not the same flavor. We scope out the days hike to Ramada Cove; but first, we stop at the popular Cruiser Shrine Tree. It was fun reading cruisers names and dates and their creative ways of adorning the tree. My favorite was a poem, ‘Poet’s Place – We sail away – we say goodbye, but friendships never end. Until we met again some day, thanks so much my friend.’That can be used as a great toast for any occasion, just change out ‘sail away’ to part paths or the like.
We didn’t come prepared but I happened to have a boat card (like a business card but all with our pictures, and contact particulars) that I squeezed between the joints of an animal lumbar bone and etched our name on a sandstone rock. I realize these may not stay long but at least for this season. The hike to the cove was half trail and half dirt road. The cove was super nice. We imagined how the stay was for Pat and Melodie on their old boat, SV Starshine. You cold pretty much have the place to yourself.
The men in the truck who helped us with directions yesterday pulled up to the beach with materials and tools. We gave them space and walked to the east end, climbed on a rock, and had our snack. As we headed along the beach, the men were walking towards us. After a friendly greeting, we asked what they were working on. The two installed a protective screen on the surface of the sand for turtles to hatch under and stay protected from flying predators. We will miss the hatching in two months.
Sitting on top of the rocks, eating our snack, and overlooking our anchorage we admire two grandiose casas behind us on the hillside. We learned later the main house and the guest house … The tale is … belongs to the man who supposedly owns all the property along the shoreline. He is also the man who provides stipends to the local farmers to sell their goods out of their petite tiendas to cruisers, and local and sport fishermen. We hike down and back to our waiting dinghy. We take one last stroll on the beach before heading back to our girl.
The next morning we plan to head south but not until we cruise the south end of San Juanico in our dinghy. The shoreline and colors and reflections are again, a marvel. Upon our return to Dharma Girl, Marty, who we met the day before and is on SV Perspective, stopped by and was worried when he didn’t see our dinghy anywhere in the bay. So he came out to look for us; so comforting that folks do keep an eye out for each other. When we return to our boat he delivered homemade chili he made just the night before. YUM!
Thanks again for reading about our little adventures. We appreciate your comments and feedback. Take care and look for our next post about Isla Coronados and returning to Puerto Escondido.