La Cruz to Caleta Lobos (Southern Crossing)

April 2020

La Cruz goes on Lockdown

We had spent a long month in Marina La Cruz doing our best to socially distance ourselves. There was one eerie night where the local bars and restaurants suddenly went quiet after the local policia had made their rounds. You can usually make out which bar is playing what music on a given night, but now it was just down to crickets.

After that, there was not much to do except hang around on Dock 4. We’d head over to the nearly empty cruiser’s lounge and download Netflix. We made it through several seasons of Better Call Saul. The other highlight of our days was wandering over to the local tienda to pickup a little of this and a little of that. It was unnaturally quiet, with no one walking the malecon, no one in the town square, and all of the eateries closed. For such a lively little place, it was kinda sad.

Our friends Glen and Debbie, on SV Beach Access, whom we had first met in Perula, were there with us. Glen was kind enough to share his van so we could make an epic Costco run into Puerto Vallarta. Trust me, having a van with space and a cooler was like getting upgraded to business class on accident. I’m sure Glen will snort out his morning coffee should he hear business class and his van used in the same sentence, as it’s his old work van that spends most days in the dusty parking lot at the marina, and looks like something Ted Bundy might have driven. 

Banderas Bay, and Mexico in general, was getting ready to keep the crowds off the beach as the country went into Semana Santa – the traditional holiday week ending on Easter Sunday. There was a lot of back-and forth information regarding port closures, and  even the lovely La Cruz Inn shutdown for the season.

Northbound to Mazatlan

We looked for a weather window that let us get up to Mazatlan and head back west into the La Paz / Espiritu Santu area. We spent two nights in Mazatlan at the Club Nautico anchorage, which we found adequate. Club Nautico was once a fancy place that fell into mild disarray. I think the nail in the coffin was the sewage treatment plant that was built across the street. It is quiet, with the usual dock cats lolling about, and the occasional puff of downwind aromatic breeze. I was able to make a run to the Pemex and reload our jerry jugs with fuel. The dinghy dock fee is really steep at 50 MXN. We left the following morning and did some sailing northward in front of hotel row later that afternoon, then decided to make our way under power as the winds died.

The northerly winds we were looking to avoid came down on us a day earlier than the forecast — about halfway through our crossing. It was time to do a little upwind bashing. We tried to head off and make some north-ing, but the angle wasn’t supporting where we wanted to go (i.e. La Paz please, not Topolobambo). So we motor-sailed westward through the night until the winds completely died off before sunrise. Poor Carrie got seasick for the first time in the steep seas.

We made the southern end of a glassy Ceralvo Channel at dawn and made our way to the anchorage at Caleta Lobos, just north of La Paz. Our good friends Kevin & Gina, SV Raven, were there to meet us. We took a well deserved nap. I think we spent a few days here. We did get fuel Marina Costa Baja and then went up to Caleta Partida. I like the fuel dock there because its super long and there is never anyone else on it.

Masks all around

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